Choosing a Suit Based on Your Build

When it comes to men’s fashion, few things make a statement quite like a well-fitted suit. However, many men forget that their bodies are three dimensional forms, and that each one of us is different. That’s why you need to consider your body shape and how certain styles, colours and cuts can complement your physique. This guide will help you pick the perfect suit based on your build, so you always look your best when it matters the most.

We’ll take you through eight commonest body types: ectomorph, endomorph, mesomorph, slim build, triangle, inverted triangle, tall and short. Each body shape is unique, but recognising which category yours fits into will help you make choices that enhance your natural silhouette. 

(Please note – the images below are to show the suits themselves. The models do not necessarily match the relevant body type descriptions.)

Ectomorph

Characterised by a naturally slim frame, ectomorphs often have long limbs and little body fat. For this build, it’s vital that you avoid being swamped by fabric. Opt for slim-fit suits that maintain a neat silhouette.

Single-breasted jackets with structured shoulders can add a sense of dimension. Darker shades work well here, as they add gravitas to a lean frame. Subtle patterns like pinstripes can also bring a little visual weight, but steer clear of bold designs that might overwhelm the look.

Endomorph

With a broader frame and higher body fat percentage, endomorphs benefit from suits that create a slimming effect. Lightly tapered suits are your best friend, and single-breasted jackets with vertical lines can elongate the torso.

Stick to darker hues such as charcoal or navy to minimise bulk. Although there has been some debate about this in recent years, we still believe that patterns like vertical pinstripes or herringbone textures can be particularly flattering, enhancing the perception of height.

Mesomorph

Naturally muscular and well-proportioned, the mesomorph is probably the easiest to fit, so you can afford to experiment. Tailored fits that accentuate your natural physique are ideal, but for a touch of drama, a double-breasted suit can emphasise those broad shoulders.

In terms of colours and patterns, mesomorphs can enjoy versatility. Go for classic looks with slight textures or checks if you want timeless appeal, but you can get away with lighter, bolder shades and patterns here, as you’re probably not trying to lengthen, shorten or de-emphasise anything.

Slim build

If you have a slim build, similar to ectomorphs but with potentially broader shoulders, slim-fit or tailored suits will complement your lean frame.

Look for shorter jacket cuts to add structure without swamping your form. Lighter colours can add bulk, while fabrics with texture, like tweed or light checks, introduce interest without overpowering.

Triangle

The triangle shape, with its wider hips and waist relative to the shoulders, benefits from structured shoulders to balance your proportions. You’re generally looking to avoid excessive fabric around the waist, so steer away from three-piece or double-breasted suits. A palette of darker shades on the bottom paired with lighter tops can shift focus upwards, so if possible, try wearing separates, or go bolder with your shirt and tie. Be wary of noticeable patterns around the midsection, which can draw unwanted attention.

Inverted triangle

With broad shoulders and a narrower waist, the inverted triangle can be a challenge to dress for. Seek out jackets with softer shoulders and a straight fit, as overly tailored waists can exaggerate your shape.

Darker tops with lighter, patterned bottoms work well to balance the broader upper body. Horizontal patterns on jackets can also help soften your expansive top frame.

Tall

For those with a tall and slim stature, suits that structure and proportion your frame are key. Make sure you choose a longer jacket that matches your height, and consider double-breasted options to add bulk. You might benefit from experimenting with wider lapels and patterned ties to add interest at eye level.

Remember that more vivid patterns, such as checks or windowpanes, can break up a longer frame. A single colour, especially if it’s bright, will inevitably accentuate your height. Whether you want to accentuate or divert attention from your height is, of course, your decision.

Short

For most shorter men, the goal is to appear taller and create a streamlined silhouette. Opt for single-breasted suits with a low button stance to lengthen the torso. Slim, vertical patterns such as pinstripes can help to give the illusion of height. Dark, monochromatic colours typically elongate the frame, offering a chic, elevated look.

Make sure your trousers fit well, and ensure they break just above the shoes for a clean finish. You can, of course, make yourself literally taller by choosing shoes with a little more lift in the heel. That’s great if you feel it’s your legs that are making you short, rather than your overall proportions. Always be subtle, however, as higher shoes will affect your apparent leg length as well as your gait. Both will affect the impact of your suit.

 

Choosing the right suit for your body involves more than just personal taste – it’s about finding a fit that flatters you. With thoughtful consideration of tailoring, colours and patterns, any man can achieve a look that makes him feel confident and stylish, whatever the event.