Styling a Brown Suit

There was a time when the brown suit was a staple of gents’ wardrobes. Look at colour photos from the 1920s, 30s and 40s and you’ll see how popular it was. It was probably the 1970s that did for brown, though. Brown, along with all its earthy cousins, was synonymous with the decade, so when the black, neon and pastel shades of the 1980s arrived, brown became deeply uncool. The brown suit would most likely be associated with the hippy geography teacher or the time-stuck accountant.

Curiously, though, even when 80s fashion itself started to get tired and comedic, brown wasn’t sucked along and rehabilitated into the wardrobe. It got stuck in a twilight zone, while black, grey and navy blue dominated the world of suits. Luckily for lovers of this warm, friendly tone, we can safely say it’s coming back into the offices, streets and wedding receptions.

So how do you wear a brown suit today without looking like you’ve raided granddad’s wardrobe? The key lies in choosing the right accents and understanding the versatility of this warm, humble hue.

The Shirt and Tie: Breaking up The Brown

If you want a timeless look, try pairing your brown suit with an immaculate white shirt. The contrast between brown and white is not just fresh and clean – it works equally well in both formal and semi-formal settings. Alternatively, light blue has a real affinity with brown – it’s the perfect balance of warm and cool, which can introduce a splash of colour while maintaining a sense of elegance.

When it comes to ties, getting back to earthy tones complements your brown jacket best. Think forest greens, burgundies or even a vibrant mustard yellow for a splash of personality (but only with a white shirt). Stripes in the same colours will always work, too. If you’re heading to a formal event like a wedding, a classic silk tie in a deep, rich colour will be a superb fit for the occasion. Of course, you can forgo the tie altogether for a contemporary look. Button your shirt up to the neck, or wear a black roll-neck jumper and you’re good to go.

Stick with Brown Shoes, but there’s some room to play

Remember, the right shoes can make or break an outfit, so choose wisely. A pair of polished brown leather shoes will blend seamlessly with your suit. But what does “brown” actually mean here? The beauty of this woody colour is that it can span quite a range, from the warmth of oxblood or red-brown to a lighter shade like tan or buff.

We’d say that you should try to match the overall warmth of the suit with your shoes. A warm brown suit (with tones of red, purple or orange) will suit warm shoes in a slightly different colour, while a cooler, lighter brown fabric will be rewarded by shoes at the lighter end of the range. Whatever colour you choose, make sure the shoes are darker than the trousers, though.

For a more casual twist, assuming the occasion permits it, consider brogues or loafers. A suede finish will soften the overall look too. Brown suede shoes have that approachable appeal that works well with any suit in the right setting.

Speaking of Occasion …

Knowing when and where to wear a brown suit is key to pulling off this look. While it certainly isn’t the go-to choice for a black-tie event, the brown suit sits comfortably between the casual and the formal, making it a versatile starting point for numerous outfits.

The apex of timing and occasion would be, say, an autumnal outdoor wedding, where the warm brown tones reflect the natural surroundings. But don’t rule out wearing yours for an important  business meeting. You can let the suit subtly convey professionalism while keeping a touch of individuality. 

The Cut

The slim-fit brown suit, with its sharp lines and tailored silhouette, is both flattering and modern, and banishes any association with wider suits of yesteryear. However, if you actually want to go for a more classic or relaxed vibe, a regular fit will offer comfort without compromising style. Double-breasted brown suits can give an air of sophistication and you’ll be  guaranteed to make a statement.

Finishing Touches

Just as with any colour of suit, accessories allow for further personalisation, so don’t be afraid to experiment. A pocket square in a contrasting colour can introduce a touch of class, while a quality watch will always bring gravitas to proceedings. Cufflinks can serve as subtle expressions of personality – metallics will reveal the occasional twinkle among the earthiness.

Finally, your choice of outerwear can add another layer of style to your look. Consider a camel-coloured overcoat or a trench in a complementary shade. Both can enhance the warmth of a brown suit, providing a cohesive look. A carefully chosen overcoat can ramp up the style in cooler weather while keeping you snug.

Brown remains a relatively uncommon sight in the world of suits, so that’s all the more reason to give it a shot. Across its spectrum, it’s a forgiving and welcoming range, and when worn with subtle flashes of complementary colours, gives a balance that other colours can struggle to convey.